by James Hill, family founder & director

One summer, on a family holiday in France, Fjona and I escaped the kids and weaved our way through the hills and vineyards en-route to an iconic three Michelin star restaurant. As we pulled into the town, the dusky light warmed the old stone and there was an irresistible feeling in the air—everything was right for a dreamy night.  Unfortunately, as we stepped into the restaurant it felt like we had been transported out of the idyllic essence of the Languedoc into a polished, sterile box that could have been anywhere in the world.  It was at that moment I realised what we most valued in a restaurant—a true sense of place.

We found that sense of place in abundance when we descended the hill in charming Port Isaac and stumbled upon the little white cottage, opposite the fishing boats, resting in the estuary mouth.  In this humble building—where you have to duck under the rafters and breathe in to let the waiter past—a small plates menu of the freshest sea food is served from the heart of legendary chef,  Nathan Outlaw.  This unassuming restaurant even surprised him when it picked up a Michelin star shortly after opening.  If 3 stars is a restaurant ‘worth a special journey’, it is this kind of experience that would top my list over any swanky joint in France.  At the time, Outlaw had a 2 star restaurant just up the hill. But for me, that didn’t capture the soul and essence of the Cornish seaside fishing port in the way Fish Kitchen does.

It is probably this desire to feel in harmony with our setting that led to the decision to knock Champagne on the head as our pouring wine and pop the cork on English sparkling. A few feared the loss but we met little resistance from our guests, and today it is never challenged. It isn’t surprising as even the French are now recognising that we’re punching at their weight all over the South Downs.

If in doubt, the International Wine Challenge put the argument to bed once and for all.  Cherie Spriggs, winemaker at Nyetimber, won Sparkling Winemaker of the Year in 2018.  It was the first time the international panel of judges had given the award outside Champagne and it was the first time it had been won by a woman.

Today the ambition of the project at Nyetimber rolls on. The release of the first Prestige Cuvee, 1086, has been another year for England.  A Prestige Cuvee is made only from the best years of fruit and then from the best wine from those years. Nyetimber batch ferment their fruit over 130 hand-harvested parcels before Cherie and the team taste and select the final blend.  With over ten years of ageing, the generous fruit character of the wine has savoury and caramelised notes that make it a delight.  The proof is in the pudding.  It’s simply delicious.  Nyetimber has reached the pinnacle of wine making.  Now on the second vintage of 1086, there is no stopping Cherie’s determination to write a fairy tale story for the estate that once passed through the hands of Henry VIII.

Perhaps because England has a significant voice on the world stage, we lose perspective that we’re actually part of a fairly small island.  The Nordic’s talk of ‘local’ being within 400km.  Well, from here in the heart of England, that makes most things on our shores fair game.  We continue to scour our land for people who love their craft and care for the ground they grow in.

Join the quest yourself and visit Nyetimber in Sussex. We promise it will be a highlight of your year. A tour of the vineyard will provide the opportunity to walk amongst some of the oldest vines in England, whilst enjoying beautiful views across the rolling hills of the South Downs. Their 15th Century Medieval Barn provides that sense of place as you taste their most celebrated sparkling wines.

You can also now get a real flavour of the different expressions of this award-winning maker across the estate. Find Nyetimber’s complex yet delicate Blanc de blancs in the Manor House—the first wine Nyetimber created back in 1992, and still a firm favourite. While Smoke’s pouring the team’s Tillington Single Vineyard—a generous expression of place and terroir. If you’re celebrating a larger gathering with us, Nyetimber’s Classic Cuvee offers a unique balance of all three varietals grown across the Sussex estate—Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. For your finale? It has to be the rich, alluring 1086, which you’ll find at Grace & Savour. From the 2010 vintage, this is a sublime wine, utterly worthy of a special journey.