by James Hill, family founder & director

One summer, on a family holiday in France, Fjona and I escaped the kids and weaved our way through the hills and vineyards en-route to an iconic three Michelin star restaurant. As we pulled into the town, the dusky light warmed the old stone and there was an irresistible feeling in the air—everything was right for a dreamy night.  Unfortunately, as we stepped into the restaurant it felt like we had been transported out of the idyllic essence of the Languedoc into a polished, sterile box that could have been anywhere in the world.  It was at that moment I realised what we most valued in a restaurant—a true sense of place.

We found that sense of place in abundance when we descended the hill in charming Port Isaac and stumbled upon the little white cottage, opposite the fishing boats, resting in the estuary mouth.  In this humble building—where you have to duck under the rafters and breathe in to let the waiter past—a small plates menu of the freshest sea food is served from the heart of legendary chef,  Nathan Outlaw.  This unassuming restaurant even surprised him when it picked up a Michelin star shortly after opening.  If 3 stars is a restaurant ‘worth a special journey’, it is this kind of experience that would top my list over any swanky joint in France.  At the time, Outlaw had a 2 star restaurant just up the hill. But for me, that didn’t capture the soul and essence of the Cornish seaside fishing port in the way Fish Kitchen does.

It is probably this desire to feel in harmony with our setting that led to the decision to knock Champagne on the head as our pouring wine and pop the cork on English sparkling. A few feared the loss but we met little resistance from our guests, and today it is never challenged. It isn’t surprising as even the French are now recognising that we’re punching at their weight all over the South Downs.

If in doubt, the International Wine Challenge put the argument to bed once and for all.  Cherie Spriggs, winemaker at Nyetimber, won Sparkling Winemaker of the Year in 2018.  It was the first time the international panel of judges had given the award outside Champagne and it was the first time it had been won by a woman.