Some things in life follow a precise recipe, unchanging from day-to-day. And then there’s bread. We’re not talking about the shelf-upon-shelf of pre-sliced stuff that lasts for a frankly mystifying amount of time. We’re talking about real bread. Made with flour, water and craft. We’ve been speaking to head baker, Adam Cross, about intuitive baking, early mornings and some happy-making additions to The Bakery’s shelves.

ADAM ON TECHNIQUE

I’m a self-taught baker, who was previously a chef. I use an amalgamation of techniques both modern and traditional. This enables me to get the optimum results from the flour and maintain a consistency that suits our chefs across the estate and our customers at the Bakery.

I use a bread formula as opposed to a recipe, because this allows me to make adjustments, depending on factors such as weather, humidity, dough quantity, moisture content and protein levels.

Like almost all bakers making at any scale, I use an industrial mixer due to the sheer quantity of dough. But I still adopt a gentle technique of mixing over a 90-minute period, and then utilise what are known as”coil folds”, typically over a period of about three hours, to build gluten strength. This is a key part of the process, and, each week, we stretch and fold all 200kg of dough by hand at the Manor. Perhaps adding a little water, or an extra fold where the consistency of the dough dictates. It’s an intuitive process that you have to be able to feel—get it wrong and your bread or pastry might taste okay but look all wrong. 

Colleges aren’t equipping aspiring bakers with the skills they need for this sort of artisan craft, instead focussing on mass-produced styles using additives and conditioners to speed up the process. It isn’t easy—I’ve been a chef since I was 17, committing myself fully to baking for the last seven years, and I’m still learning. But creating and honing this craft is my favourite part of my job. Simply following a recipe could get monotonous, and just isn’t how baking works.  

ADAM ON THE BAKERY’S TOP SELLERS

Our sausage rolls always sell out. You should definitely aim for an early arrival if you’ve got your heart set on one. And since I put Basque Cheesecake on the shelves, I haven’t been able to take it off! Our cinnamon rolls continue to be a popular choice but I’ve been introducing some variations, through morning buns, which can offer a similar flavour profile but with a caramelised bottom—let the team know what you think if you get your hands on one.

At the moment, I’m working on refining our ham and cheese croissant, experimenting with Dunwood farm ham hock and Montgomery cheddar from Neal’s Yard. I’ve also introduced a seasonal focaccia, with additions like mandolined butternut squash, Baron Bigot cheese and sage from the walled garden. The slightly naughty addition to our shelves seems to do very well at weekends. But if you’re a fan of the almond croissant, can I point you in the direction of our Bostock? Which is a bit like deconstructed version of the staple. Made up of all our excess croissant dough, baked, sliced and with the addition of our own jam and frangipane, what’s not to like?

You’ll always find croissant, pan au chocolat, plus our dark baked village loaf and seeded loaves on offer. We use only flour milled at Tuxford Windmill, with grain grown at nearby Bytham farm in Lincolnshire. The stoneground flour preserves the nutrients found in the grain and the seeded loaf contains UK grown seeds sourced from Hodmedods. This really comes through in the flavour profile. From start to finish, they take three days to make, hitting the ovens shortly after 4am, on day three, when I arrive at The Bakery, ready for our shelves at 9am.

ADAM ON EARLY MORNINGS

I appreciate the 4am starts might not work for everyone but I actually really enjoy the quiet of the morning. And there’s no other way to get fresh breads, cakes and bakes on the shelves for 9am, so it’s not really a negotiable for bakers.

Going forward, I’m keen to keep creating, and collaborating with local businesses. On coffee, we’ve been working with local roasters, Quarter Horse, offering one of their blends as our guest filter. And the coffee side of our offering is only getting more popular as the better weather opens up even more seating. I’m not sure you’ll ever see the sort of donuts that got me known through my first baking business (@JamvsCustard) at Hampton Manor’s bakery. But I do have some cruffin tins ready and waiting when time allows, so watch this space.

Join Adam, Rafa and the team, Thursday to Sunday, 9am-12pm. Open to non-residents and hotel guests alike, there’s dedicated parking, or take the five minute stroll from Hampton-in-Arden train station.